What are camellias?

Camellias are evergreen shrubs or trees that traditionally bloom in the fall, winter and early spring. They are members of the family of plants called "Thea"  Camellias are native to China, Japan and Southeast Asia.  There are many different species of the genus camellia with a wide variety of characteristics such as bloom types, blooming season, colors, growth habits, and other desirable traits such as fragrance.  With so much to offer, it is no wonder that Camellias are known as "The Queen of Ornamental Shrubs" .

What is the difference between the terms "species" and "varieties"?

Camellias are like dogs.  There are many types of dogs.  There are Poodles, Labs, Retrievers, Spaniels, etc.  Each of these types of dogs are species of dogs - just as Japonica, Sasanqua, and Sinensis, are species of camellias.  In each type of dogs, you have individual dogs, such as Labs named "Bear", "Bailey" "Sam" or "Hobie". Likewise,in each species of camellia, such as Japonica, you have individual varieties or cultivars like "Professor Sargent", "Marie Bracey" and "Sea Foam" .  Just like "Sam, Bear, Bailey and Hobie",  each camellia variety is genetically different from all of the others. 

How many species are there?

There are over 250 known species of camellias in the world today.  The most common are Camellia Japonica and Camellia Sasanqua.  The oldest known species in existence today is Camellia Sinensis "The Tea Plant"

When do Camellias bloom?

Traditionally, camellias bloom in the Fall and Winter months, with some blooming early spring in the south.  Different species and varieties within species, bloom at different times.  Camellia Sasanqua blooms September-December.  Some varieties of Camellia Japonica will begin blooming in October while others may not begin blooming until January or some even as late as March. 

Can camellias be grown in containers indoors?

In northern or cold climates where outdoor conditions are not condusive to growing camellias, they can be grown with great success indoors.  Camellias are a cool season plant, so care should be taken to give them a cool, but not freezing environment with as much natural light as possible.  Moderate soil moisture should be fine.  Too dry or too wet will cause problems. 

How far north can camellias be grown outdoors successfully?

For the most part, Camellias should grow well in Zones 7, 8 and 9.  However, camellias have been grown in some areas of zone 6 with precautions such as placing in a protected area away from northern winds with some canopies of evergreen shade trees. 

There are some varieties that have been bred with Camellia Oleifera, a well known cold hardy species.  Some of these are "Winter's Charm", "Winters, Star", "Snow Flurry", and "Polar Ice".   These and ones similar have been known to survive very harsh winters and bloom well.

What is the ideal soil and growing conditions for camellias?

Camellias like a moist but not wet, acid soil.  Most all camellias will perform well in shadier locations.  Some camellias will perform well in sunny areas.  Sasanqua's,  and most dark colored flowers will tolerate more sun than other camellias.

Are there any pests or diseases to worry about with camellias?

Camellias are generally very easy to grow with little problems.  Note we said "little" not "none".  Camellias are susceptible to a few pests such as Tea Scale, Mites and Aphids.

Tea Scale

Tea Scale is a common problem for camellias.  It is an insect with an armored body and appears on the underside of camellia foliage as a white powerdy substance.  If left untreated, it will cause yellow spotting to the upper side of infected leaves, can spread rapidly to other parts of the plant or near by plants and can cause a decline in plant health and even death.  Effective control of tea scale is to get it under control before it becomes a problem.  Look at your plants often and if any signs of scale is seen, treat it promptly with a horticultural oil spray.  In severe cases,  insecticides may be required.

Mites

Mites appear as a very fine, often overlooked dust to leaves.  Their damage can be recognized by a bronzing to the upper side of leaves mainly near the center vein.  Treat in the spring and in the fall with a horticultural oil spray or a miticide.

Aphids

Aphids usually appear in the spring as little green ant like creatures that will nibble and chew the new growth of camellias and other plants.  The use of an insecticide at the first sign of aphids is recommended to keep them under control.

There are not many diseases found with camellias, but there are a few.

Root Rot

Root rot is the most common disease or fungus relating to camellias.  It usually occurs in areas where the soil is too wet, especially in containers.  To help prevent root rot, plant your camellias in a moist soil, but not wet.  Good drainage is a must.  If planting in the ground, raise the rootball up about an inch when planting.  If you are planting in containers, make sure your container has drain holes and select a planting mix that drains well and doesn't hold too much moisture.

Dieback

Dieback in camellias is caused by a fungus.   The fungus enters plants through wounds caused by nicks, cuts, or even dropped leaves.  It enters through the wound and eventually forms a canker.  The canker can cut off supplies such as nutrients and water to the upper parts of the infected stem or branch, causing death.  Remove visible cankers by cutting them out with a pruning knife and treating with a fungicide.  In some cases, the entire plant may die due to this fungus.   It is believed by some avid growers, that there are varieties that are more resistant to the fungus than others.

Petal Blight

Petal Blight is a fungus that effect blooms in late winter and early spring of many camellias.  Flowers infected with petal blight will have brown blotches soon after opening.  The infected flowers fall to the ground and if left will decompose.  Mold spores will lie dormant in the ground until the following season when the weather begins to warm after the winter. This usually occurs in Mid to late February and March.  When the weather warms, the spores, billions of them, float up into the air, land on the newly opened blossoms, they fall to the ground and the cycle starts all over again.

There is no cure for petal blight.  Picking up ALL of your blooms and destroying them will offer a little help, but one petal can produce up to 3 billion spores and can travel for 5 miles.  Even if you were very sanitary, and your neighbors are not, you will still have a problem with petal blight.  Research has been done on fungicides but unless applied often and adequately offer little or no protection for this disease.

Planting varieties that bloom before petal blight is active is one degree of help, as well as is planting varieties that may be more resistant to the fungus spores.